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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.